Shey Palace Leh is located in the small town of Shey on the Leh-Manali highway, about 15 Kms south of Leh. The palace was built five centuries ago. The notable features of this palace are; it’s architecture, the unique three storey statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, and the breathtaking view from the palace. It is believed that this palace served as a summer retreat for the then King of Ladakh. This magnificent structure which once embodied the prowess of the kingdom called Ladakh is now in a ruined state.
About Shey Palace and Monastery in Ladakh:
Built by Deldan Namgyal in 1633, Shey Gompa was once the residence of the royal family of Ladakh which was originally constructed by the first king of Ladakh, Lhachen Palgyigon. The monastery is positioned on a hillock; 15 km south of Leh, towards Thiksey, where the skeleton of this former summer palace of the kings of Ladakh is perched high up on a rocky cliff.
There is a three-stored statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, which is the main image in the monastery made of copper guilt, which was primed by Deldan Namgyal in the memory of his father Singay Namgyal. The effigy is the only of its kind in the region. As per the historical and spiritual myth, it was the seat of power of the pre-Tidetan kings. Two annual festivals named Shey Srubla festival (30th day of the 1st Tibetan month) and Shey Rul-lo (10th day of the 7th Tibetan month) is held here. There is a small library in the lower chapel where you can find collection of Tangkhas, which is perhaps the largest collection in Ladakh.
History of Shey Palace and Monastery :
Shey was the old capital of the upper Ladakh region. When the Dogras of Jammu invaded Ladakh in 1842, the Namgyals abandoned the palace and fled to Stok (they made it their permanent residence) on the opposite side of the Indus River. It is conjectured that the fort found in ruins, not dated, above the present palace at Shey, belonged to this period of invasion. Subsequently when the political dictates necessitated shifting of the capital to Leh, even then the importance of Shey continued since it was a mandatory requirement of the Namgyal kings to father their heir apparent here.
Other Attractions :
Thiksey Monastery : Located at a distance of 17 km southeast of Leh is the Thiksey Monastery. The highlight of the monastery is the spanking new Maitreya temple housing the largest Buddha statue in the entire Ladakh region. The statue is not seated on a throne, as is usually the practice, rather it is in a lotus postion. Bright murals behind the walls depicting the life of Maitreya’s life are the work of monks from the Lingshet monastery. The Thiksey Gustor is the monastic festival celebrated in the ninth month of Tibetan Buddhist calendar.
Stok Palace & Monastery : 14 km southeast of Leh, Stok Palace is a four storey structred housing the Ladakhi royal family post their ouster from Leh and Shey. The museum here, along with royal relics, has on display thankas representing lifestyle of Shakyamuni. The Stok Gompa exhibits a number of masks worn during the dance dramas along with modern murals painted by the monks of Lingshet monastery. Buses run from Leh to Stok on regular basis.
Spituk Monastery : Located 18 km from Leh, Spituk Monastery is perched atop a hillock. The prime attraction of this monastery is the chapel of Tara with 21 of her excellent sculpted images. Apart from this, you can also have a look at icons of Buddha, an awe inspiring image of Mahakal, five thankas, ancient masks and antique arms. The Spituk Gustor is celebrated every year in the month of January.
Shey’s Festivity :
In July the Metukba festival takes place in the Shey Gompa with one day of prayers for the well being of all life in the entire world. The upper chapel of the Shey Gompa is used for everyday functions; it surrounds the Buddha figure’s head as a sort of balcony. The lower, somewhat larger, chapel houses a large collection of Thankas and a library. All the old Thankas bear the stamp of the ‘Gompa Association, Ladakh ‘.
The best time to visit the Shey Gompa is between 7.00 and 9.00 am or 5.00 and 6.00pm since the monks perform their prayer devotions at these times. The Gompa is usually closed to the public at other times. Near Shey there is a field with an impressive collection of hundreds of small Stupas and Mani Walls.
The Temple Of Shakyamini :
Fine minutes walk across the fields from the palace, in the centre of a Chorten strewn plain, stands a temple, enshrining another massive Shakyamuni statue (Daily 7.00 am – 9.00 am & 5.00 pm – 6.00 pm). Best viewed from the mezzanine verandah on the first floor, it is slightly older than its cousin up the hill. The descendants of the Nepali metalworkers who made it, brought here by Sengge Namgyal, still live and work in the isolated village of chilling famous for its traditional silver ware. Downstairs, the Gompa’s Du-khang contains dusty old Thangkas and manuscripts.
Shey’s Ancient Monument :
Easily missed as one whizz past on the road is Shey’s most ancient monument. The rock carving of the five ‘Tathagata’ or “Thus gone” Buddhas, distinguished by their respective vehicles and hand positions, appears on a smooth slab of stone on the edge of the highway; it was probably carved soon after the 8th century, before the “Second Spreading”. The large central figure with hands held in the gesture of preaching (turning the wheel of Dharma), is the Buddha Resplendent, Vairocana, whose image is central in many of the Alchi murals.
Shey Oracle :
As in Mulbekh, Tikse, Matho, Stok and other Ladakh villages, Shey has an oracle. During the Shey Shublas, the August harvest festival, the Shey oracle rides on a horse and stops at various places around Shey to prophesise the future. The oracle, a Shey layman, starts at the Tuba Gompa where he engages in a two or three day prayer, while in a trance, in order to be possessed and become an oracle.
The Shey oracle is held in the highest regard and viewed as a God who has achieved the highest level of existence. Other oracles, especially those in Tikse and Stok, are not so well regarded, but are at the same time feared and revered because of their spiritual state. It is said that if one asks a question of an oracle, but disbelieves the answer and goes to another oracle, no answer will be given.
How to Reach :
By Air – Leh airport is connected by Indian Airlines, Alliance Air and Jet Airways to destinations like Delhi, Jammu, Chandigarh and Srinagar.
By Road – Leh is approchable by road between the months of June to October when the highways connecting it to Srinagar and Manali is open. From Leh, regular minibuses ply to Shey. Buses are also available to and from Shey and Thiksey.
